The Hidden Caves of St. Pietersberg in Maastricht

Maastricht is a lovely little city that has a very different charm to it when compared to other Dutch cities. What really stood out in terms of culture were the St. Pietersberg Caves situated on the outskirts. “Caves and culture”, you may question, “How exactly do they go together?” Well I myself was pleasantly surprised at these intriguing ‘caves’ full of history, fascinating stories and art of course.

Firstly, a short boat trip to the caves is necessary. From the dock you walk up a small hill to reach a lovely restaurant with a view. This is where the St. Pietersberg cave tours begin. There you meet your guide who takes you on a short walk through some vineyards and farmland (just behind the restaurant).

Upon approaching the St. Pietersberg caves I discovered just how warm it actually was on that particular day. This is because as soon as you motion towards the entrance of the caves you immediately feel a cold wall of air around your body – one of the most amazing earthly wonders like natural aircon for animals and plants (or humans in this case!).

At the entrance there are also some interesting carvings including hearts and signatures on the exterior walls, which demonstrates just how soft the limestone rock really is. Sadly, tourists are responsible for these engravings over the years. However, there is a kind of allure to them as it makes one wonder about the inner caves themselves and what they just might contain…

Then the excitement begins. This experience is not for those with claustrophobia or who are afraid of the dark. The guide lights a lamp and goes through a couple of metres, urging you inside. Immediately you begin to notice how dark the interior is – an eerie feeling as the temperature drops and everything blackens.

    

The caves are a labyrinth of 8000 passages and the guide takes you from one to the next explaining that these caves are in fact not really natural caves but that they were underground mines formed by man hundreds of years ago. More intriguing is the fact that workers who worked in these extremely dank conditions were dubbed ‘block breakers’ because they we doing literally that. The marl blocks they chiseled out would be used for houses, buildings, churches and even castles! And all of this was done with very little light and in the chilly underground conditions.

Napoleon himself visited the caves and once carved his name into the wall in addition to the hundreds of names and drawings carved by miners. These inscriptions were once considered beautiful and pleasing to do but today they are not permitted in order to preserve and retain the history of the area.

Inscriptions and art no doubt form a crucial part of the history of the ‘caves’ and they once housed 780 famous artworks including Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. These artworks were hidden within the caves for safekeeping during the First World War.

The St. Pietersberg caves were thus used as a refuge for people and important belongings for hundreds of years. In 1794, battles took place below the fort area and a huge explosion occurred leaving a large hole in the ground. The caves also later served as a refuge for many Jewish people during World War Two and many of the city’s inhabitants at the time used these caves to hide out. Wells were created to supply water and there was even a bakery and a church established inside the passages.

   

The creativity of the miners as well as those seeking refuge was definitely not stifled in this pitch dark, dank area as one would think. In fact, many illustrations and sketches are still visible on the cave walls in black and can only be seen in the lamplight.

   

What is truly breathtaking and unexpected is that art is still part of the makeup of the St. Pietersberg caves; art had a way of transcending the battles that were going on outside. Art was and can be formed in the direst of circumstance – no matter how dark it is. There is something so intriguing in this subterranean area symbolic of love, perseverance, courage – and, war and suffering in contrast. It is for this reason that the caves hold an air of mystery and magic. I will return again.